“A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike.  And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless.  We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.”  – John Steinbeck

We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.”  – T.S. Elliot

Hemingway in his novel, A Moveable Feast, wrote, “Never go on trips with anyone you do not love.”  Perhaps that’s because you might be tempted to leave them en-route if you cared for them any less.  Travelling despite all the anticipated splendour and excitement, the unforgettable moments, and the memory making, can be hard graft. Navigating in unknown streets, deciphering foreign languages, walking 20000 steps a day, and surviving only on world class pastries and untested wines…these are mighty challenges indeed and not for the faint of heart, or poorly heeled as it turns out.  Little old lady in waiting to little old lady in waiting, sandals that feel like sneakers, at least pre travel, are still sandals … but honestly can you really be expected to pair Reeboks with a slip skirt after 50?

The demands of travel and its accompanying tribulations, can test even the most tenured and enduring relationships.  I am recently arrived back on the continent from a tri city European tour with a much-loved Gen Z daughter.  As you may expect, she outwalked, out navigated, and generally out travelled me at every turn.  She slept better, she knew when to stop and insta the roses, and, maybe most importantly, she knew how to work a travel boundary, to carve out space for herself within the confines and constancy of the vacation vortex.

The donning of air pods was my cue to retreat behind the veil of a novel where we both exhaled deeply into much needed solitide.  Alone, together, we enjoyed daily retreats from the uncensored, stress-born commentary characteristic of unconditional love. That is to say, we, at times, annoyed the “fodors” out of each other.  Still, after a few days at home, each immersed in our own self soothing rituals (Cortados, yoga, pickleball, Netflix), I can, after less than a week in-country, regard our time away as a perfectly sublime excursion with my favourite girl in the world. I have the pictures to prove it. But this trip has got me thinking about the true value of travel and in particular, the part that comes home with us… the part we get to keep.

Jon Kabot Zinn in his much lauded book, “Wherever you go, there you are,” suggests that no matter how many miles from home you travel, you can’t escape yourself.  Kabot Zinn goes on to say some very powerful things about mindfulness and I can’t recommend his work highly enough, but as to his initial premise … I have some notes. I think travel changes you in significant and lasting ways.  Free from the hamster wheel of our daily lives and the safety of our usual routines, we are forced to navigate differently, to tolerate the stress of unknowing in a foreign landscape, and, if we’re lucky, we may begin a process of unbecoming.  Without the mirror of our usual relationships and roles, who are we…without the reflecting pool of our everyday lives?   Answer…whoever we want to be.

 As a little old lady in waiting, travel is a tremendously liberating experience, far more intoxicating than the constant stream of eye candy and the sugar coating of clean rooms and meals made by another’s hands.  There was wine on occasion, of course, but that wasn’t the real elixir.  Free of the demands of everyday life, walking and watching our principle occupation, my mind was let loose to travel too, with a renewed intellectual energy reminiscent of years long past,when I had only my own path to consider. In Budapest I stood near “the shoes” on the Danube and felt a little disoriented by my freedom.  I was  steeping tea in a strange teapot, brewing a history of ideas that belonged to a much younger, more politicized version of myself. In Vienna, I was bedazzled by beauty at every platz and struck by the metaphorical significance of the German aphorism, “Auch die pause gehort zur musik” (the rest, or silence also belongs to the music). In Prague, the city of Kafka and Kundera, I felt immersed in a dark story book setting and began narrating a conversation inside myself that is still ongoing.

I think it was David Mitchell in Cloud Atlas, who wrote, “travel far enough, you meet yourself.”  I couldn’t agree more.  Travel never goes completely as expected.  I’m referring here to the missed flights (never… ever book impossible to get concert tickets  within 48 hours of touch down); the too packed itinerary (trying to do everything ensures you’ll enjoy nothing); the high season, overcrowded attractions ( Mona Lisa mosh pit in June); and the disasterous over-hyped venues( read the reviews my friends – the Szechyny  spa in Budapest looks like a refreshing break from the castles and cafes, but in truth it’s a 3^rd rate, dirty aquatic center whose thermal pools are tepid at best). The point is the seasoned traveller knows how to wash off the detritus of a disappointing day  with a good pinot grigio and the promise to buy yourself a small objet d’art to remember the day ironically. 

The planning and negotiation of a journey is a labour of love, an entity all it’s own, but once you land at your destination, all plans are fluid and so must your approach and acceptance of “what is” be,  because fretting, bemoaning and catastrophizing about what a journey “is not”, is  a waste of your travel budget, literally and figuratively.  Maybe if you’re say…a highly structured, control-loving mom, a trip hiccup is an invitation to float (2025 aspirational word of the year) to be frivolous or dare I say, even selfish.  Maybe a daughter takes the helm and suddenly you’re transported to a very pink Viennese café that sells an ice cream called Kardinalschnitten, that apparently corresponds to the colours of the Catholic Church and tastes like God herself is inside.  Before you know it you’re having a serious conversation about God’s existence and what a poor chalice language is when it comes to discussing she who has no name.  Or maybe a highly anticipated classical concert enjoyed on tortuous church pews gives way to a meaningful discussion of uncomfortable life choices, the importance of maintaining a relationship with yourself, and the longing for a space of one’s own; a beautiful setting for your baby to announce her decision to leave home. 

The point is that without the usual trappings of life, the social cues, the roles and masks we all wear, we are free to reinvent or re-imagine ourselves.  We meet ourselves on distant shores and it’s the best kind of homecoming.  Travel changes you, if you let it.  You are not the same person as when you left, maybe only in small ways but it’s there, this tiny voice inside; the woman who tasted God in an ice cream and decided to cherish herself like someone she loves, or the girl who bought a new watch in Vienna, and knew it was time to leave home.

The Dalai Lama suggests “Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before.”  He doesn’t say why but I believe he is prompting us to open our minds and experience all things with new eyes. St Augustine wrote that “the world is a book, and that those who do not travel read only one page.” I think he’s right.  I have been an armchair traveller all my life but have only found opportunity to travel in the real world in the last decade.  It is a different kind of education, a remembrance of who we are, an understanding of our own acquired lens on the world.  Anais Nin knew a secret thing.  She said “we do not see things as they are, we see them as we are.”  I read this truth in a book long ago, but I understand it best because of my travels.  I have had many occasions to remove my glasses in transit, en-route, in unfamiliar terrain, to see things with different eyes.  It’s knowing that our glasses are there at all that has the power to transform, to make all that we left at home, new again, and that, I guess, is the real enchantment of travel…a reawakening. It’s the part we get to keep, long after the unpacking.